For example, Varathane‘s resin is an acrylic modified urethane. But please know that these varnishes still contain acrylic resins. I’ve separated the polyurethane varnishes because they are marketed differently. (The same holds true for acrylic paint, by the way.) Polyurethane Varnish The brand of clay you’re using will make a difference, and some clay-varnish combinations will give you a sticky finish. For this reason, you should always test your particular varnish with the clay you’re using before trusting it to a large or important project. They do not bake out.) This is why some varnishes, glazes, and sealers work beautifully on wood and paper but become soft or sticky when used on polymer clay. (Contrary to myth, plasticizers stay in polymer clay. The only reason this matters is that some of these plastic resins are softened by the plasticizers in polymer clay. The specific formulas are usually a secret, so you’ll never know exactly what is in the varnish you choose. To save costs, they may also contain vinyl acrylic, vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate, polyurethane, or even polyvinyl acetate (PVA, such as in white glue). Acrylic varnishes contain acrylic polymer emulsion, which is an acrylic resin suspended in water. In this category, you’ll find artists’ acrylic varnishes, craft store varnishes, and polymer clay brand glazes. I’ll now break down this Varnish category into two types, Acrylic Varnish and Polyurethane Varnish.īest for: Sealing surface treatments, creating a glossy effect, and enriching translucent projects. Always stir these containers before use, as the matting agent can settle in the bottom, leaving just the glossy varnish at the top of the bottle. Matting agents are particles that dull the shine of the varnish. Varnishes are inherently glossy, but can be made to have a satin, semi-gloss, or matte finish by using matting agents. Varnishes do not camouflage surface imperfections such as fingerprints. Applying varnish to heavily textured projects can result in pooling and air bubbles. Brush strokes can be an issue with this category of finish. It’s best to use a soft brush and apply several thin coats. Once dried, most will form a stretchy plastic film over your work. These products are typically clear to milky white liquids. This includes artists’ varnishes, wood varnishes, glazes sold by the clay manufacturers themselves, and even floor finishes. Just like wetting a beach pebble, a glaze or varnish can make clay appear brighter and/or more translucent. Note that adding a glossy varnish can make translucent polymer clay seem more clear. To make your clay project less shiny, you could apply a matte varnish. You can sand, buff, and polish the clay itself (see below), or you can apply a glossy varnish. The same holds true for dots of paint and antiquing in the recessed areas of a design. Note that light dustings of chalk or mica, such as rosy cheeks on a sculpture, do not need to be sealed. When you apply mica powders, chalks, glitter, or metal leaf to the surface of your polymer clay project, it will need to be protected if the item is subject to wear. You only need to seal and protect what you put ON the surface of your polymer clay project. This will depend on the brands involved and the conditions they’re exposed to. ![]() Most polymer clay glazes, sealers, varnishes, or clear coatings can become sticky, peel easily, turn cloudy, or crack. If anything, adding a coating to polymer clay increases the likelihood of it being ruined. ![]() It will not make a project stronger or protect against breakage. Adding a clear coating, glaze, or varnish will not make a polymer clay project more durable, waterproof, weatherproof, or heatproof. We would never think of varnishing or sealing a beach ball to protect it, right? Likewise, there’s no need to seal polymer clay. Your clay design will only be completely hardened when cooled down to room temperature.Polymer clay, when cured, is vinyl – similar to a kiddie pool, tablecloth on your deck table, or beach ball. Objects made with Fimo Soft are very durable and strong after baking.įor oven-hardening, simply place your modelled item on aluminium foil or a glass plate and let it harden in the oven for a maximum of 30 minutes at a temperature of 110☌/230☏. Once you've created your shape, objects can be oven-baked to set. The firm, smooth texture makes it easier to knead, and it's ideal for mixing colours. This Fimo Effect block is ideal for all projects, from simple magnets to intricately designed jewellery. ![]() ![]() This clay is easier to use than ever before, making it perfect for children as well as crafters of all skill levels. Fimo Effect Modelling Clay is fantastic polymer clay of the most premium quality.
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